DIY Guitar Messing About (4 Viewers)

[JohnnyRaz]

speaking of finish, i reckon i might use melamine lacquer on the body. which i've not used before, but which i've seen used on bowls and it has a nice low gloss finish.

Are you still thinking of using the ruby shellac as a colour coat - or will you be hitting the rustins

 

[ann post]

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Spent the last few days redecorating the cinema room

 

[magicbastarder]

Are you still thinking of using the ruby shellac as a colour coat - or will you be hitting the rustins

no decision there yet!

tonight was squeaky bum time, the moment of no return.

 

[JohnnyRaz]

no decision there yet!

tonight was squeaky bum time, the moment of no return.

View attachment 17461

You could’ve squeezed another clamp in there?

 

[magicbastarder]

room for another five by my reckoning...

 

[JohnnyRaz]

room for another five by my reckoning...

Best to be sure.. did you use the salt?

Unless it slips completely you can still compensate when you shape/cut the neck into its final allignment.

 

[magicbastarder]

No, I tried the trick of two panel pins through the first and last fret slots, to be removed this morning.

 

[JohnnyRaz]

Neck repaired, refinished and fitted back in place.
Baby diy guitar messing about the the recent standards of this thread

 

[magicbastarder]

No, I tried the trick of two panel pins through the first and last fret slots, to be removed this morning.

not too bad - the centre lines move by probably between 1 and 2mm at the headstock end, i suspect i was too gentle with the panel pins.
there's now a probable 1mm convex bow in the fretboard, i think that was partly due to it being hard to hand plane a piece of wood that thin that accurately. will be much easier to plane that out now it's part of a piece of wood over an inch thick. also, it has to be borne in mind that it's just been released from tight clamps and has all that water based glue in it, so may take several days to settle again.
i absently mindedly reached for an allen key to fiddle with the truss rod and see if i could take the bow out before thinking 'uh, maybe best to let the glue completely dry first'.

 

[JohnnyRaz]

not too bad - the centre lines move by probably between 1 and 2mm at the headstock end, i suspect i was too gentle with the panel pins.
there's now a probable 1mm convex bow in the fretboard, i think that was partly due to it being hard to hand plane a piece of wood that thin that accurately. will be much easier to plane that out now it's part of a piece of wood over an inch thick. also, it has to be borne in mind that it's just been released from tight clamps and has all that water based glue in it, so may take several days to settle again.
i absently mindedly reached for an allen key to fiddle with the truss rod and see if i could take the bow out before thinking 'uh, maybe best to let the glue completely dry first'.

Good stuff.
I’ve just found I can’t get some of my sheet materials from Uk. May have to re think my next build..

 

[magicbastarder]

what sort of materials are you looking for?

 

[JohnnyRaz]

what sort of materials are you looking for?

This would be the 1.5mm mahogany etc.. only places that seems sell it are in Uk, apart from a place in France where I could buy it in bulk..

I need >700mm lengths, which Royal Mail won’t ship because of length, and dhl keep returning to sender with customs issues

First world problems…

 

[magicbastarder]

there's a lad up north who does supplies for woodturning, it's possible he could get it. but if he gets it as a custom order, i suspect you're looking at €€€€. or ££££ in his case.

 

[magicbastarder]

how did you radius the fretboards on your builds? or did you? thomann don't sell radius sanding blocks so i couldn't include one in my order, and they're quite a faff to make. i suspect i'll struggle to buy one in ireland and never like paying more for delivery than i would for the item itself, which is what i suspect would happen.
or else i just need to befriend someone with a fancy CNC router.

 

[ann post]

how did you radius the fretboards on your builds? or did you? thomann don't sell radius sanding blocks so i couldn't include one in my order, and they're quite a faff to make. i suspect i'll struggle to buy one in ireland and never like paying more for delivery than i would for the item itself, which is what i suspect would happen.
or else i just need to befriend someone with a fancy CNC router.

Not in ireland but saw this a while back

SqWAYre Radius Gauges - Made in USA (Style: Both)

The SqWAYre Tools line is growing fast! Have a look around and come back soon to see new tools!

sqwayretools.com

 

[JohnnyRaz]

how did you radius the fretboards on your builds? or did you? thomann don't sell radius sanding blocks so i couldn't include one in my order, and they're quite a faff to make. i suspect i'll struggle to buy one in ireland and never like paying more for delivery than i would for the item itself, which is what i suspect would happen.
or else i just need to befriend someone with a fancy CNC router.

I bought slotted/radiused boards, and the board on the mandola is flat(lots of mandolin/bouzouki/etc. boards are flat)

Check these guys out - I get some of my wooden stuff from them - their stuff is fairly reasonable

HONGYIN MUSIC Store - Amazing products with exclusive discounts on AliExpress

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a.aliexpress.com

 

[Space]

Madinter in Spain sells lots of tools including Stewmac gear.

Luthier tools to build guitars and instruments | Madinter

Amplia variedad de maderas herramientas y accesorio para el Luthier

www.madinter.com

 

[JohnnyRaz]

Madinter in Spain sells lots of tools including Stewmac gear.

Luthier tools to build guitars and instruments | Madinter

Amplia variedad de maderas herramientas y accesorio para el Luthier

www.madinter.com

They’ve good stuff alright.

 

[magicbastarder]

i had been half thinking it'd be easier for me to make a convex radius block, and use that as a sanding block to make a convex one of the same radius. but that sounds like too much work.

 

[ann post]

i had been half thinking it'd be easier for me to make a convex radius block, and use that as a sanding block to make a convex one of the same radius. but that sounds like too much work.

It sounds like somewhere in there is a reverse engineering avenue all the same.