DIY Guitar Messing About (5 Viewers)

[JohnnyRaz]

should have read the specs before ordering! now i need two new drill bits.

• Axis: 6.35 mm
• Bore: 8.5 mm

Harley Benton Parts 6in-L Vint Machine Heads

6 In-line vintage machine heads Kluson-style machine heads, For all Vintage Fender 6 In-Line 50's and 60's models, Oval knobs, Axis: 6.35 mm, Bore: 8.5 mm, Colour: Nickel, Includes bushings and fixing screws

www.thomann.de

they also don't specify anywhere what the spacing is between them, so i'll have to assume it's standard 119mm or 120mm or so between first and last centre, and try that on a piece of scrap wood to confirm.

The axis is the shaft diameter I’m presuming- so you don’t need a bit for that
Try a 9mm bit and see will the bushing hold, just to make your life easier.
The centres for the holes should be standard,

 

[magicbastarder]

Already tried, they're 8.67mm according to my digital calipers. So 9mm way too big and 8mm a non starter.

 

[JohnnyRaz]

Already tried, they're 8.67mm according to my digital calipers. So 9mm way too big and 8mm a non starter.

A wee wrap of fine sandpaper on each one would be what I try next (I know that’s my answer to everything)

 

[magicbastarder]

My wife works in the city centre so should be able to pop up to gough's tomorrow. Or failing that, mcquillans.

 

[JohnnyRaz]

My wife works in the city centre so should be able to pop up to gough's tomorrow. Or failing that, mcquillans.

It’s not too bizarre a size at least

 

[magicbastarder]

yeah, i got a 5.5mm bit in goughs before, so they hopefully will have other half mm sizes.
just realised i also forgot to buy string ferrules. at least gear4music can get them to me in a couple of days with only €3 delivery.

 

[ann post]

I know it's 2023 but it still sounds like ye's need to order an imperial drill bit set.

 

[magicbastarder]

yeah, a 'vintage machine heads' set does not scream metric. FWIW the distance between each one is 23.8mm.

 

[ann post]

Dunno if any of ye's were in the mood to look at that video about precision from a while back, but it was 100% news to me that inches as we know them have been entirely based on metric for a long time. madness.

 

[magicbastarder]

routed out the neck pocket this evening, that was very nerve wracking. but it turned out better than i'd hoped, a nice tight fit. i did the dry run probably six times though. i'll need to fill that worm track though, that's annoying.

 

[magicbastarder]

i'd spotted before that the curve of the body of a tele as it meets the underneath of the neck, continues as it 'appears' above the neck, so it's one of the reasons it looks nice and clean. but i only spotted last night that the curve of the bottom of the body (before it swings out to form the lower horn) also matches up with that curve. i wonder would it be possible to trace that across the body and neck for a future build? i'm not going to start trying to integrate that now.

 

[magicbastarder]

i.e. this curve.

 

[JohnnyRaz]

i.e. this curve.

View attachment 17544

when you say 'trace' what do you mean exactly? have it aligned or actually highlighted on the body somehow?

 

[magicbastarder]

yeah, highlight on the body with some relief, on the fretboard with some inlay?
though a relief cut on the body would mess with a standard scratchplate.

 

[JohnnyRaz]

yeah, highlight on the body with some relief, on the fretboard with some inlay?
though a relief cut on the body would mess with a standard scratchplate.

Personally for the work it would take, I don’t think it would look that good!

 

[GARYXKNIFEDX]

i'd spotted before that the curve of the body of a tele as it meets the underneath of the neck, continues as it 'appears' above the neck, so it's one of the reasons it looks nice and clean. but i only spotted last night that the curve of the bottom of the body (before it swings out to form the lower horn) also matches up with that curve. i wonder would it be possible to trace that across the body and neck for a future build? i'm not going to start trying to integrate that now.

I think the flow of lines on guitar shapes is like that a lot,and it plays into why not quite exact takes on a Tele or strat or possibly even Gibson's makes them not look right.

 

[magicbastarder]

Personally for the work it would take, I don’t think it would look that good!

yeah, just spitballing. as mentioned, i only copped it last night and assume it was intentional. or had they thought about the aesthetics to that extent when the early ones were designed?

 

[magicbastarder]

near gotcha here - i assumed the bridges were the same, and the footprint *is* almost identical, but you can see the saddles from the squier on the left are about 5mm longer than on the Göldo brand bridge i bought. i guess this means the bridge needs to sit 5mm closer to the nut, but that messes with the aesthetics ever so slightly.

 

[ann post]

shir go at with an angle grinder

 

[JohnnyRaz]

near gotcha here - i assumed the bridges were the same, and the footprint *is* almost identical, but you can see the saddles from the squier on the left are about 5mm longer than on the Göldo brand bridge i bought. i guess this means the bridge needs to sit 5mm closer to the nut, but that messes with the aesthetics ever so slightly.

View attachment 17548

Not necessarily - the pickup should be in the same place - the bridges can move forward for intonation.

Measure 25.5” from the nut along the center line, draw a line at 90* across that point, and place bridge on that such that the high e string bridge saddle is on the line.

Then pop the pickguard on and see how it looks.