DIY Guitar Messing About (1 Viewer)

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was the twist caused by a slightly askew glue joint, or is it twisted anyway?

a little bit of column a, a little bit of column b.

There is a twist but I had got the joint off (partially due to a slightly off cut, partially due to the fact the edge of my bench is so chewed up its no longer flat in some places - next project new bench)
 
buy or build? having the bench dogs is very handy on my bench, but i have learned to be careful when working with small parts, to put them well clear of the dog holes when i put them down.
 
buy or build? having the bench dogs is very handy on my bench, but i have learned to be careful when working with small parts, to put them well clear of the dog holes when i put them down.

build. To maximise the space in the shed I'll probably have to.

If I had the space I would actually consider some of the woodworking benches you see in McQuillans and the like, factoring in materials cost they are not that expensive.

However - given what I do it would be like having a 6K gibson on the wall that was only used to play wonderwall in the house once a year
 
Because the kitchen table has to go i'm looking at spendning the weekend refinishing the table in the workshop to move indoors and buying this for the shed

 
Because the kitchen table has to go i'm looking at spendning the weekend refinishing the table in the workshop to move indoors and buying this for the shed


That's nice, might treat myself to one of them soon too.
 
JR, you don't happen to have an extra long 5mm or 6mm drill bit, do you? i need to connect the cavities in the body and the standard bit i have is way too short.
 
JR, you don't happen to have an extra long 5mm or 6mm drill bit, do you? i need to connect the cavities in the body and the standard bit i have is way too short
JR, you don't happen to have an extra long 5mm or 6mm drill bit, do you? i need to connect the cavities in the body and the standard bit i have is way too short.

This is the best I can do. 8mm, but that would work ok too; often best to have a little more rather than less space in wiring channels
 

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This is the best I can do. 8mm, but that would work ok too; often best to have a little more rather than less space in wiring channels
cheers - my wife managed to pick me up a nice one in mcquillans today. should you ever need to borrow it.
my neighbour dropped in some spade bits for drilling the hole for the output jack but i reckon i'll invest in a forstner bit for that.

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cheers - my wife managed to pick me up a nice one in mcquillans today. should you ever need to borrow it.
my neighbour dropped in some spade bits for drilling the hole for the output jack but i reckon i'll invest in a forstner bit for that.

View attachment 17562


Yeah - I normally drill a few pilot holes in a roughly circular shape and them hit it with 20mm forstner.
 
Is 20mm enough? The usual plans call for a 0.9" hole, which is 23mm. I've a 22mm spade bit, which I'll use to drill into some scrap wood and confirm how much wiggle room there is.
 
Is 20mm enough? The usual plans call for a 0.9" hole, which is 23mm. I've a 22mm spade bit, which I'll use to drill into some scrap wood and confirm how much wiggle room there is.

Worked for me. Although I guess I’d have been using the forstner to core out an area I’d have drilled pilot holes through, so it may have been wider in the final hole when I’d cleared it out.
 
forgot to mention, the 6.5mm and 8.5mm bits my wife picked up worked just fine for the vintage tuning pegs (well, i've tested on a spare scrap of maple, not going to drill the actual neck till i get access to a pillar drill). in case you ever find yourself in a similar spot, you're welcome to borrow them.
 
View attachment 17561

The power of Christ compels you!!

this worked - I rewetted the offending side, and reshaped (which helped a little). an 8mm dowel slips into hole at the far right of the cross piece, and keeps that (bout?) in place.

I'm basing my overall method (kinda) off the method to make mandolina/as etc. where the sides should be kept in the form until the back goes on. So as I'm not doing that having a brace makes sense. I had forgotten I did something similar with the mandola - but that was a simple brace from heel to neck block
 
you'll shape the top and bottom to the sides when attaching, rather than vice versa?

A little bit of both.

Its pretty much now held in the shape it should be - in terms of being aligned and balanced either side. the two laminated pieces have separated in one of two spots due to the re-wetting, so I'll re glue and clamp those.

So I'll trace the overall shape onto the back so I have enough overlap to cover the edges, and can see if anything is particularly kicking out/in

I'll use the form to hold the shape when I apply the purling (the flexible strips that effectively bracket the to to the sides) - this will aid holding things back into shape.

Then with brace back on, glue back to sides.

Then the neck goes on/in

then the top

then the fretboard.

The joys of making something that's my own design rather than a replica means aesthetically I'm aiming for something that looks good, rather than something that looks like something else.
 

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