DIY Guitar Messing About (3 Viewers)

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half sorted, had to use a 2mm bit to drill around the screws, and get them out with a needlenose pliers. i've routed a fresh clean half inch hole where that butchery occured, and will turn some dowels to fit on the lathe and fit those later.
need to find replacement screws too.
 
i 'dry' assembled it earlier, and bar the issue with the pickup screws, it seems fine bar a little bit of fettling.
once i fix the screw holes, i'll be getting the finer sandpaper out.
regarding the fretboard; just lemon or orange oil, or would the fretboard on a bass like this typically have varnish, etc?
i need to shape the headstock too...

PXL_20230213_142711577.jpg
 
i 'dry' assembled it earlier, and bar the issue with the pickup screws, it seems fine bar a little bit of fettling.
once i fix the screw holes, i'll be getting the finer sandpaper out.
regarding the fretboard; just lemon or orange oil, or would the fretboard on a bass like this typically have varnish, etc?
i need to shape the headstock too...

View attachment 16658

Maple is usually varnished. Rosewood and ebony are usually oiled. A few big companies such as Rickenbacker are known to oil maple boards. I'd say there's no need to varnish but but the board can get very grubby when it's a lighter colour wood.
 
i 'dry' assembled it earlier, and bar the issue with the pickup screws, it seems fine bar a little bit of fettling.
once i fix the screw holes, i'll be getting the finer sandpaper out.
regarding the fretboard; just lemon or orange oil, or would the fretboard on a bass like this typically have varnish, etc?
i need to shape the headstock too...

View attachment 16658

Looking good! Did you sort your neck screw issue? As moose said you can put what you want on the fretboard but normally it’s hard lacquer of some description as opposed to oil. Biggest issues with that is cleaning it off the frets afterwards. If you’re using danish oil on the body that could work on the fretboard as it would offer a barrier against dirt.

Also at the risk of being a pedant - I’d check the scale length. Nut to 12 fret should be the same as 12 fret to to saddle for the g string. Saddle should be extended about 3/4-4/5 of its travel towards the neck. I say this from making the mistake of not checking this…
 
it's handy having the lathe - i reamed out the messy holes from drilling the screws out, with a half inch router bit, and then turned some oak plugs and have glued them in. maybe not perfect, having to screw into end grain now, but it's not as if it'll have to carry a lot of weight.

PXL_20230213_165904722.jpg
 
After much planing. Body timbers and neck blank prepped. Mahogany boards defied all efforts to get a tight join.. gap filling with shavings shall be practiced.
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the last photo is what will become the neck?

yep, still have to square cut the ends - I ultimately chickened out of slotting my own fretboard, as based on the 'one complex new thing at a time' approach setting frets is next on the list.

so I've a 23'' scale guitar fretboard on the way, that will be cut down to taper from about 45mm to 32mm along with the neck. I may hold off until that arrives before making the headstock/scarf joint, as it probably would be sensible to align the grain to make any shaving/scraping easier (note big arrow on board indicating direction of grain). However I'm impatient, so I might rock on..

however I do have a pile of wood coming my way to build a bike shed in the front garden, so that may occupy me for a while
 
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One thing I was never happy about with the bozouki was the oak pickup rings I made. I orientated the grain the wrong way and they are weak and a bit shabby looking

Thinking of remaking them with some pickguard material - welcome thoughts on whether this is an improvement
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