push it real good (1 Viewer)

[La La]

film geeks:

if i want to 'push' a shot (ie shot on 400, pushed to 800) how do i go about it?

it was mentioned in my darkroom class last year but i haz forgot.





and damnit, im gonna do this anyway, now it's in my head

http://ie.youtube.com/watch?v=lylqvitgg7M

 

[RSJ]

Lob in your four hundred, manually set the ISO on the camera to 800 (this may require a manual) bob's yer uncle. What kind of camera is it lala? Maybe google search "camera model push film" or some such?

 

[JohnnyRaz]

Lob in your four hundred, manually set the ISO on the camera to 800 (this may require a manual) bob's yer uncle. What kind of camera is it lala? Maybe google search "camera model push film" or some such?

aye, if youre doing the develpoing yourself, increase dev time by a factor of at least 1.5. Some films give the exact push/pull dev times, check the inside of the box or the internerd.

 

[Shay HT]

Dont you have to alter the processing time as well?

edit: reads johnny's above!

 

[La La]

thanks guyse. it's for a Nikon FM. jraz - i havent developed a roll myself in about twn months, so would be bringing it into Gunns. would i need to tell them what I did?

 

[JohnnyRaz]

thanks guyse. it's for a Nikon FM. jraz - i havent developed a roll myself in about twn months, so would be bringing it into Gunns. would i need to tell them what I did?

Id say just ask them to push it from 400-800 for you. Im sure they'll oblige!

 

[hugh]

Id say just ask them to push it from 400-800 for you. Im sure they'll oblige!

Yeah they do this no problem. I often push 400 speed film to 800. Works fine.

 

[La La]

and....finally....what result should i expect to get from pushing the film?

 

[hugh]

and....finally....what result should i expect to get from pushing the film?

You shouldn't see any particular "result" as such .... it just means that you gain an extra stop when shooting, so you can take pictures in slightly lower light than if you rated it at 400 speed.

Pushing film does result in it becoming a bit more grainy though. However, I doubt you would notice that when pushing from 400 to 800, or at least only if you were making very big enlargements.

 

[JohnnyRaz]

higher contrast, more grain, loss of shaddow detail. as hugh said 400-800 is fairly minor, as its only one stop and well within the films exposure latitute. try 100 exposed at 800/1600 to really see and effect.

You shouldn't see any particular "result" as such .... it just means that you gain an extra stop when shooting, so you can take pictures in slightly lower light than if you rated it at 400 speed.

Pushing film does result in it becoming a bit more grainy though. However, I doubt you would notice that when pushing from 400 to 800, or at least only if you were making very big enlargements.

 

[La La]

Pushing film does result in it becoming a bit more grainy though. However, I doubt you would notice that when pushing from 400 to 800, or at least only if you were making very big enlargements.

higher contrast, more grain, loss of shaddow detail. as hugh said 400-800 is fairly minor, as its only one stop and well within the films exposure latitute. try 100 exposed at 800/1600 to really see and effect.

that's cool - the more grain (and contrast) the better, IMHO. thanks for your tips, looking fw to messing around with it anyway

 

[magicbastarder]

you could just shoot with delta 3200 - one of my favourite films.

 

[JohnnyRaz]

you could just shoot with delta 3200 - one of my favourite films.

aye, used to use yards of it; mr gunn always reckoned it wasnt a true 3200, just a pushed 1600! see below for example;

 

[RSJ]

Read an interesting article earlier on about unity gain on digital cameras. As i understand it, every digital camera has a point in it's ISO range where the camera stops upping the ISO and just "pushes" from there on in. So say the D300's is 1100, anything above that you'll get noise and contrast and all that jazz, but below that the camera can handle it. Interestingly, the (cheaper, lower spec compared to D300) D50's is 1500, while the 5D Mark II's is 1600. The nikon D3's is an amazing 6400. Makes me want one even more, despite the insano price tag.

From the article:

An important concept here is the “unity gain ISO,” which describes threshold at which the A/D converter digitizes 1 electron into 1 data number of a digital file. Since 1 electron the minimum amount of information necessary in this process, the unity gain ISO represents the point after which digital multiplication must take over, analog amplification.


Shooting above the unity gain ISO, the signal-to-noise ratio decreases as the limit of real information collected by the sensor and digitized by the A/D converter is reached. Or in other words, above the unity gain the camera is going to be working to multiply more noise and less real, image-forming information.


Furthermore, raising the sensitivity above the unity gain ISO results in decreased dynamic range due to highlight clipping as a result of the multiplication of data.

 

[JohnnyRaz]

Read an interesting article earlier on about unity gain on digital cameras. As i understand it, every digital camera has a point in it's ISO range where the camera stops upping the ISO and just "pushes" from there on in. So say the D300's is 1100, anything above that you'll get noise and contrast and all that jazz, but below that the camera can handle it. Interestingly, the (cheaper, lower spec compared to D300) D50's is 1500, while the 5D Mark II's is 1600. The nikon D3's is an amazing 6400. Makes me want one even more, despite the insano price tag.

From the article:

interesting, ive also noticed using digital in studios where your using a flash meter to take exposure readings(which is calibrated to film iso), that plugging the settings from the meter into the dslr almost always led to over/under exposure by a stop or so, which wasnt an issue with film. I wonder is it related to the above?

 

[RSJ]

I'd say exposure with certain DSLRs is a bit fast and loose. The first batch of D300s were notoriously overexposing shots to the point where most d300 tipsheets start off with "first thing: change your exposure compensation to -.7ev".

That said, i've seen some samples taken from the tamron 17-50mm for digital compared against the nikon 17-55mm, same camera, same settings, and the shots with the nikon lens were about a stop overexposed, so whether it's the cameras or the lenses, i'd say they just bang out so many of these things, the quality's not what it was with older (analogue) equipment.

 

[JohnnyRaz]

i guess part of the problem is the relative newness of the technology, film was arround for years before they came up with a standardised measure of sensitivity. Also i guess the fact that all camera manufacturers have unique (and generally propriatory) ccds, processors etc, wheras a roll of fuji 400, is a roll of fuji 400 regardless of what camera youre shooting on. Its also easy to tweak exposure when you can view the image automatically. I guess for most purposes as long as the camera meter and and its sensitivity settings are in line with one another it dosnt matter how close to the actual iso standard it is.

I'd say exposure with certain DSLRs is a bit fast and loose. The first batch of D300s were notoriously overexposing shots to the point where most d300 tipsheets start off with "first thing: change your exposure compensation to -.7ev".

That said, i've seen some samples taken from the tamron 17-50mm for digital compared against the nikon 17-55mm, same camera, same settings, and the shots with the nikon lens were about a stop overexposed, so whether it's the cameras or the lenses, i'd say they just bang out so many of these things, the quality's not what it was with older (analogue) equipment.

 

[magicbastarder]

aye, used to use yards of it; mr gunn always reckoned it wasnt a true 3200, just a pushed 1600! see below for example;

i must upload a full size shot later; it's great for low light (obviously) and for portraits, cos it's flattering on skin tones.

i'd only bother to push film when the light is low and i've nothing fast - you get similar results from just buying fast film in the first place.

 

[JohnnyRaz]

i must upload a full size shot later; it's great for low light (obviously) and for portraits, cos it's flattering on skin tones.

.

yeah, the heavy grain can give a real painterly effect. i look forward to seeing the shot!

 

[magicbastarder]

bollix, i forgot.