DIY Guitar Messing About (3 Viewers)

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New thread??

I have the 240v version of one of these:

It does have a switch rather than a trigger.

I should say I have never ever used this nor any other router. I got it when a client was downsizing. They decided to auction as much as they could, and throw away anything 240v. So I salvaged a couple of cool things. Though I have no real use for them.
 
New thread??

I have the 240v version of one of these:

It does have a switch rather than a trigger.

I should say I have never ever used this nor any other router. I got it when a client was downsizing. They decided to auction as much as they could, and throw away anything 240v. So I salvaged a couple of cool things. Though I have no real use for them.

240v and a Blue passport?
 
New thread??

I have the 240v version of one of these:

It does have a switch rather than a trigger.

I should say I have never ever used this nor any other router. I got it when a client was downsizing. They decided to auction as much as they could, and throw away anything 240v. So I salvaged a couple of cool things. Though I have no real use for them.
You won't cut much with that thing pictured
 
That's certainly not the same item, but it was only a quick google. Whatever I have is older and I haven't really been able to have a go of it.

The post was more about the switch/trigger question, with added colour.
 
Second dick about. Getting the hang a bit more and held properly the switch location is easy to keep your hand on, so a little dangerous.

With a bit of set up and care it’ll do at least one of the three things I might use it for (truss rod channel)
The bit comes with a 3mm template collar - so I might be able to use it to rout pickups etc with a bit of prep.

2508F244-2D36-48FB-8615-569BCC9924A0.jpeg
 
you do realise the link you posted is a picture of a lad with a 'gary liniker you shithouse' placard?

No. No I did not realise that.
Thank you for having the decency to tell me. Otherwise you'd all be laughing at me and I wouldn't know why, and I'm self conscious enough around you lot as it is.
Sorry for muddling the thread.
 

Something like this I think. But I don't know anymore.
 
@JohnnyRaz

Just a few tips - for cuts more than 3mm it's better to do them in stages with hardwood - some softwoods you'll get away with 15mm depth easily but if possible graduate them.

I was a bit surprised by the square foot on it, the vague idea with a round one being that if you make a jig you have constant distance to centre with a round footprint and little more freedom work your arms into the cut.

However being 600w it might be less of a thing and you can probably combo with drill to make pickup cuts.

I do use some of the inbuilt depth guages but over time I found a vernier calipers, preferrable plastic makes a great companion tool. You can set cut depth better IMHO. The metal ones will eventually fuck up a piece when you drop it with the pointy bits.
 
@JohnnyRaz

Just a few tips - for cuts more than 3mm it's better to do them in stages with hardwood - some softwoods you'll get away with 15mm depth easily but if possible graduate them.

I was a bit surprised by the square foot on it, the vague idea with a round one being that if you make a jig you have constant distance to centre with a round footprint and little more freedom work your arms into the cut.

However being 600w it might be less of a thing and you can probably combo with drill to make pickup cuts.

I do use some of the inbuilt depth guages but over time I found a vernier calipers, preferrable plastic makes a great companion tool. You can set cut depth better IMHO. The metal ones will eventually fuck up a piece when you drop it with the pointy bits.

yeah thanks - the staged cutting for deeper cuts is something I figured out (see channel on the right of picture versus the left). Three passes gets me down to the right depth.

I was thinking similar for the pickup routs - use the 6mm bit to effectively scribe a channel round the edge of the rout, drill out some of the 'fill', and then perhaps use a wider bit, forstner or a chisel to chop out remainder.
 
Not perfect cosmetically - I misjudged where I clamped the guide and had to do it in two runs. But 15mins, as opposed to about 2hrs with a chisel, and will work 100% well once drilled the headstock for the nut. I could come round to these router yokes yet A50AE7FE-E411-4063-B030-AC177F458649.jpeg
 

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