DIY Guitar Messing About (7 Viewers)

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laminating what will be the back of the body now - first half done. not sure whether i'll do the second half directly onto the first, or do it completely separately and then do a third gluing, of the two together. i'm leaning towards the former though.

PXL_20230131_214237052.jpg
 
my last 24 hours - using the router sled last night and today to flatten the oak; now the question is do i finalise the outline of the guitar on the top layer, before gluing it to the base; or do it anyway and finalise after? it'll be easier to finesse the shape before gluing i think, but i don't have one of those router bits with the bearing at the top which will allow me to 'trace the shape out below (in fact, the one i have is the reverse, the bearing is at the bottom)
i've sanded the oak rather than planing it; it just tears too easily with the plane, and it's not as if i have consistent grain direction anyway, the way it's been laminated.

PXL_20230202_204333308.jpg PXL_20230203_140136123.jpg
 
my last 24 hours - using the router sled last night and today to flatten the oak; now the question is do i finalise the outline of the guitar on the top layer, before gluing it to the base; or do it anyway and finalise after? it'll be easier to finesse the shape before gluing i think, but i don't have one of those router bits with the bearing at the top which will allow me to 'trace the shape out below (in fact, the one i have is the reverse, the bearing is at the bottom)
i've sanded the oak rather than planing it; it just tears too easily with the plane, and it's not as if i have consistent grain direction anyway, the way it's been laminated.

View attachment 16630View attachment 16631


My sense would be that it’s best to work with the whole block in general, but as you’ve formed your shape with the top you may as well continue as you’ve started.

Your top piece presumable isn’t millimetre accurate to the original? So if top and bottom don’t align 100% you’ll have scope to shave or rasp?

You using the bandsaw?
 
the top is only rough cut, about 5mm+ too big all the way round. together, they'll be thicker than the original (currently at 44mm, original is 42mm) but i'll take more away once i've glued up.
the top is 14mm, oak section is 30mm. i think a thinner top may be more aesthetically pleasing, but i may be better advised thinning the oak instead as that will take more weight off.
 
the top is only rough cut, about 5mm+ too big all the way round. together, they'll be thicker than the original (currently at 44mm, original is 42mm) but i'll take more away once i've glued up.
the top is 14mm, oak section is 30mm. i think a thinner top may be more aesthetically pleasing, but i may be better advised thinning the oak instead as that will take more weight off.

Are you not going to chamber the oak?
 
mulling over what do do with it now. i just weighed it - needs to be thinned a little, and i'll lose a little bit of weight with the belly cut and arm relief, but it's currently weighing in at 4kg. half wondering should i do without a scratchplate and rout out a cavity from the back and install the controls that way.

PXL_20230203_201845239.jpg
 
mulling over what do do with it now. i just weighed it - needs to be thinned a little, and i'll lose a little bit of weight with the belly cut and arm relief, but it's currently weighing in at 4kg. half wondering should i do without a scratchplate and rout out a cavity from the back and install the controls that way.

View attachment 16634

Looking good already. You managed a really tight join on the top - I’ve found that wood shaves well.

routing out the back won’t necessarily take more wood out than working with a scratch plate. Chambering would be quicker and easier if you’re worried about weight. 15 min with a Forstner bit before you put the top on!
 
yep, i've decided to go down the chambering route; will give my wife the chance to buy me that scheppach pillar drill lidl had on weds for €100, as a birthday present. though i suspect it's gone now. have marked out on the oak where i'll carve it out. left 12cm down the middle for pickups and the bridge. not expected, but the two pickups supplied aren't identical; one is 9cm and the other 9.4cm.

i hand planed the wood to do that join, that japanese whetstone is great, but that wood does plane well as you mention. the oak,

PXL_20230203_223449069.jpg
 
yep, i've decided to go down the chambering route; will give my wife the chance to buy me that scheppach pillar drill lidl had on weds for €100, as a birthday present. though i suspect it's gone now. have marked out on the oak where i'll carve it out. left 12cm down the middle for pickups and the bridge. not expected, but the two pickups supplied aren't identical; one is 9cm and the other 9.4cm.

i hand planed the wood to do that join, that japanese whetstone is great, but that wood does plane well as you mention. the oak,

View attachment 16635


I got a good join on the top piece for mine with the block place. The bottom pieces were a bit warped, so much less successful. Will fill any gap with splinters when I get that far
 

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